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Weingut Keller, Hubacker Riesling Grosses Gewächs, 2018

White Wine from Rheinhessen, Germany
$229.00
Use code 10OFF to get 10% off 12+ bottles
A dry grand cru Riesling from the vineyard where the Keller story begins. It's a 2018, so it comes with several years of bottle age, which is more patience than most people ever give a Keller GG. Hubacker, in the village of Dalsheim, was the first site the family ever owned. They have worked its yellow limestone since 1789, and it is usually the last of their vineyards to be picked. Across the estate, Klaus-Peter Keller's mother, Hedwig, left her mark: she drew on her years working at a nursery to select low-yielding, open-clustered Riesling cuttings from ancient vines in the Saar. Limestone runs through the whole estate, too: Keller made its name on dry Rieslings from limestone-dominated soils, with the kind of power and precision people compare to Burgundy grand cru. Farmed organically at what we'd call the Rheinhessen's greatest address, a back-vintage GG from Keller's founding vineyard doesn't come along often.

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Antonio Galloni

92 points

"Scents of white peach, greengage, grapefruit and lemon are already strongly marked by their pits and peels. These are accompanied by high-toned evocations of mint and a whiff of chalk dust. Yet the polished palate delivers succulent fruitiness that’s unusual for a Riesling of the Grosses Gewächs genre, even though combined with invigorating zest, piquancy and tartness. Mint returns in the impressively sustained finish for a delightfully cooling influence that, along with sheer juiciness, complements chalkiness and counteracts any tendency of fruit pits and citrus zests toward bitterness. This strikes me as an unusually expressive Hubacker, not to mention an unusually forward, generously fruited (albeit also piquant and chalky) Grosses Gewächs." —David Schildknecht

Jancis Robinson

19 points

"I really wasn’t ready to move on to this after the Kirchspiel. Slightly deeper gold than the Kirchspiel and so different in fruit profile. Smells richer and riper, the fruits ranging from golden plum through apricot and bitter orange. Spicy too, golden and savoury in character. On the palate, it surprises by the extreme freshness – not what I expected after the breadth and oily ripeness on the nose. Even so the balance is perfect – a miracle to get this fruit character together with this intense freshness. Mouth-watering, super-concentrated, bolder than the Kirchspiel but balanced in its more muscular components."

More about Weingut Keller

Klaus Peter Keller runs Rheinhessen's greatest address, and his dry Rieslings are so crystalline and deep that Jancis Robinson calls them the Montrachets of Germany. Seventy percent of his vineyard is classified Grosses Gewächs, and every bottling proves the point: this is German wine at its most majestic.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2018

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Crisp

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast chicken with lemon and thyme, Dungeness crab, seared scallops with brown butter, pork schnitzel, trout amandine, or aged Comté.

Tasting Profile

Expect the classic Keller dry GG profile: ripe lemon, white peach and yellow apple over a stony, chalky limestone core. Typically medium-bodied and concentrated, with vivid, cutting acidity and real grip (think the precision of a fine Chablis with a little more fruit). The finish is long, dry, saline and mineral.

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WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!

Learn more about German Wines