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Cappellano, Barolo Chinato, 2020

Dessert Wine from Piedmont, Italy
$89.99
Taxes and shipping calculated at checkout.
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This is Barolo Chinato from the family that invented it. In the late 19th century Giuseppe Cappellano, a pharmacist from Serralunga d'Alba with a shop in Turin, perfected a recipe that paired aged Barolo with cinchona (quinine) bark and a carefully balanced mix of aromatic herbs, and he sold it as an anti-malarial remedy. The recipe has never changed. It is written by hand and passed down by letter each time a new generation takes over (Teobaldo Cappellano got his from his father Francesco in a sealed envelope), and the spice list is still a secret. Augusto Cappellano, the fifth generation, still grinds each spice one at a time in the family's antique cast-iron mortar and pestle. He says it took him years to master, and he started as a young child. The spices then steep in alcohol for about a month in a set order before they're blended with sugar and aged Barolo, made from the Nebbiolo on the lower third of the family's slope in Serralunga's Gabutti cru. The blend rests until it comes together and is bottled unfiltered. Chinato has had plenty of imitators over the years, but this is the original, from a house that takes it as seriously as its Barolo. And there's no rush to finish it: an opened bottle keeps for a very long time.

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More about Cappellano

Serralunga is extreme. No village in Barolo produces wines of greater structure and longevity. We understand that has to do with its soils, as no village in Barolo has a greater concentration of limestone.

When dealing with such a lion of a terroir, it must be tempting to find a whip that will tame the beast. For a wine-maker, that could be barriques, or short macerations, or roto-fermentors. Those are the short-cuts.

Augusto Cappellano, like his father Teobaldo before him, does not take those short cuts. Partly, that's because he is just fine with structure and longevity. That is the natural product of Serralunga's special terroir, after all. Partly, it's because Augusto's extremely high-quality farming (the family has only four hectares so they can apply their natural farming methods assiduously to each and every vine) ensures that the grapes' tannins ripen properly, avoiding any of the harsh, bitter qualities that for years many assumed were also "natural."

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Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    2020

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Aromatic

  • Sweetness

    Sweet

  • Body

    Full Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Dark chocolate, the pairing most wines can't handle and the producer's own suggestion. Try it with a flourless dark-chocolate torte, Piedmontese bonet (chocolate-amaretti custard) or a plain square of bitter chocolate after dinner. Drink it neat at room temperature or over ice, or use a splash to deglaze a pan.

Tasting Profile

Expect the classic Barolo Chinato profile: dark cherry and plum from the Nebbiolo base, layered with warm baking spice, orange peel, herbs and the bracing bitterness of quinine bark. Typically sweet and full-bodied, with a long, bittersweet finish where the bitterness keeps the sugar in check. Think of a richer, wine-based cousin of sweet vermouth or amaro.

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