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Bottle of Hirsch, Riesling Heiligenstein Zobinger, 2022 - White Wine - Flatiron Wines & Spirits - New York

Hirsch, Riesling Heiligenstein Zobinger, 2022

White Wine from Kamptal, Austria
by Hirsch

$106.99

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Heiligenstein is not just a vineyard—it’s a monument. Rising above the Kamptal, with a swirl of ancient sandstone, volcanic inclusions, and desert flora, it yields Riesling that’s less about fruit than formation. In the hands of Johannes Hirsch, the site’s quiet power is preserved, not interpreted.

The 2022 is precise and composed. No embellishment, no excess. Fermented with native yeasts in old oak, then left on its lees without distraction, it offers structure without hardness, energy without flash. The wine’s movement is vertical—like something pulled upward rather than poured.

It’s not Riesling made to impress—it’s Riesling made to last, to unfold over time, and to reflect where it comes from with absolute clarity.

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One reason that Weingut Hirsch's wines are so good is that Johannes Hirsch did a lot of things first. He was one of the first in Austria to dump Chardonnay and really focus on Kamptal's great varieties of Riesling and Grüner Veltliner. He was one of the first to farm biodynamically. He was first to switch all closures to stelvin. So he's had a longer time to perfect this style of hyper-artisanal winemaking than virtually anyone else in Austria.

There were hiccups along the way. Not everyone loved the Rieslings from the late aughts that ended up with some residual sugar. But it turns out that this was just what nature wanted to do in those vintages. And since then, Hirsch (and nature) have made nothing but classical, dry Grüners and Rieslings. He has avoided the trend towards higher octane Austrian wines that we have seen elsewhere. With lower alcohol levels, Hirsch shows the pure, crystalline essence of Austrian Grüners and Rieslings.

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2022

  • Size

    750ml

  • Style

    Crisp , Juicy , Minerally

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied