More about Maison Glandien

Maison Glandien is the négociant side of Tino Kuban, one of the cult names of the new natural-leaning Burgundy, and the place to taste his touch on fruit from across eastern France.

Kuban was born in Berlin and learned his trade far from it, with stints in New Zealand (including Felton Road and Burn Cottage), at Mullineux in South Africa and with Jura and Rhône natural-wine heroes such as Overnoy, Bornard and Dard & Ribo. In 2018 he bought the tiny Meursault estate of Bernard van Berg, known for meticulous, very low-yield farming, and renamed it Les Jardins Vivants. Maison Glandien, launched the same year, buys small lots of organically or sustainably farmed grapes, mostly from the Côte Chalonnaise, with more from the Hautes-Côtes, Beaujolais, the Jura and Alsace.

The winemaking is minimal and careful. Whites are foot-trodden and pressed in a vertical press; reds ferment entirely whole-cluster with long macerations of around a month; aging is mostly in used Stockinger barrels, with little new wood and only a small dose of sulfur late in the process. Everything is labeled Vin de France, which undersells what's inside: these are detailed, high-toned, transparent wines, made in tiny quantities.