More than half of Clos des Mouches — 14 of its 25 hectares, in one of Beaune's greatest premiers crus — belongs to the Drouhins, who bought in back in 1921 and have spent a century working out which rows suit Pinot Noir and which suit Chardonnay. This is the rouge, from the southern tip of the Beaune appellation where it runs into Pommard, on clay and limestone that turns rocky at the top of the slope and marly through the middle. Twenty to fifty percent whole clusters depending on the year, indigenous yeasts, then 14 to 18 months in French oak with a quarter new barrels; the vineyard has been farmed organically since the late 1980s and biodynamically since the 1990s. 2015 was hot and dry with very low yields in Côte d'Or Pinot, and the reds came out deeply coloured and dense with genuine tannic spine — the house files the vintage alongside 2005 and 1990 for keeping. At eleven years it has only just entered the 10-to-25-year drinking window Drouhin gives this wine, so give it a long decant now or leave it another decade. Sourced from a private cellar.