Flatiron has called this one a baby GG for years, and that's exactly what it is: bone-dry Riesling drawn from young vines in Keller's grand cru (Grosse Lage) sites, at a fraction of the ask for the wines above it. Von der Fels means "from the rock," and the rock is limestone — the south-facing limestone slopes of Rheinhessen, with clay and loess in the mix. Klaus-Peter Keller's dry Rieslings have earned the estate a reputation as Rheinhessen's greatest address, and it's telling that when asked which bottle a newcomer should start with, he names this one. The style he's after, in his own words, is soil-marked, with energy, elegance and refinement. Seventy percent of the estate's vineyard is classified Grosses Gewachs, which means the young vines feeding this wine are sitting in some very exalted dirt. A family operation, ten generations deep, with three generations currently under one roof.