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Voliero, Brunello di Montalcino, 2021

$72.99
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Small family estate run by the Trequattrini family near Tavernelle in northern Montalcino. Higher elevation vineyards in the cooler northern zone. "Voliero" means "aviary" in Italian. Traditional winemaking with extended aging in large Slavonian oak casks. Focused entirely on Montalcino wines—just Brunello and Rosso.

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Antonio Galloni

95 points

"Nuances of crushed rocks, menthol and citrus-infused blackberries waft up as the 2021 Brunello di Montalcino evolves in the glass. It is harmonious throughout, lifted yet silky in texture, with a wave of ripe red and black fruits alongside brisk acidity. Crunchy mineral tones add depth toward the minty-fresh close. The 2021 finishes staining and full of youthful tension." —Eric Guido

Robert Parker

94 points

"Showing structure and depth, the Voliero 2021 Brunello di Montalcino reflects the balance and power of the vintage with young, firm tannins framing dark fruit flavors of blackcurrant, plum and toasted spice. The tannins are assertive at this stage and will need time to integrate, rewarding patience in the cellar. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts and uses dry ice to preserve freshness, followed by 30 months of aging in oak vessels of various sizes, a regimen that underscores varietal character. Production totals 9,300 bottles plus larger formats." —Monica Larner

Jancis Robinson

17 points

"Maturing mid ruby with orange tinges. Herbal notes and dark, dried tobacco leaf over sour cherry on the nose and with a hint of cinnamon. Cumin hints over cherry fruit on the palate with beautiful coating tannins. A little rustic, definitely genuine and with age this will improve."

Kerin O'Keefe

94 points

"Aromas of forest floor, ripe black plum, blue flower and a whiff of resin form the nose on the Voliero 2021 Brunello. On the full-bodied palate, velvety tannins envelop succulent black cherry, bitter orange and tobacco. You’ll also notice the warmth of alcohol on the finish." —Kerin O'Keefe

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More about Voliero

Ciacci was a pioneer in Castelnuovo dell’Abate, a village just to the southeast of the DOCG’s traditional home in Montalcino. It’s a village with such a distinctive soil type that they had to come up with a new name for it: “Castelnuovo marl”. A river that passes through the village keeps the vineyards a touch cooler — very important for a DOCG that is constantly battling with the heat.

So it was that in this corner of the DOCG a new style of Brunello developed. Poggio di Soto is the most famous example, with Ciacci di Piccolomini not far behind. And it is here that we find Uccelleria, a winery with vineyards just uphill from Ciacci, where the salt-of-the-earth Tuscan Andrea Cortonosi produces his flagship wine.

People kept asking Andrea to sell his wine, but he just didn’t have enough to go around. Purchasing more land to add to production must have been tempting, but he was worried that this would dilute the very precise personality of Uccelleria — essentially, a polished somewhat modern take on Castelnuovo dell’Abate Brunello. So he built an entirely new winery.

That winery is Voliero, and the contrast with Uccelleria couldn’t be sharper. While Uccelleria is planted higher than Ciacci, Voliero goes even higher — another 200 meters up the hill. This makes a big difference! Voliero also benefits from the contribution of grapes from Sant’Angelo, another high altitude vineyard.

In the winery, there are few of the modern touches that you find at Uccelleria. Fermentations are long and cold. Aging is solely in giant casks.

All of this results in wines that are nervier and edgier than classic Castelnuovo, while still possessing all its elegance and refinement. There is more sour cherry here and fewer notes of dark chocolate. There is decidedly more freshness.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Sangiovese

  • Vintage

    2021

  • Size

    750ml

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

What Skurnik Wines has to say about this wine:

100% Sangiovese from 10-30 year old vines grown in sandy clay soils rich in fossils

Vineyards sit at 350-430 meters above sea level

Fermentation and maceration in temperature-controlled stainless steel for 20-25 days

Aging in large Slavonian and French oak casks (20-50 hl) for 30 months prior to bottling

Approximately 750 cases produced annually

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Grilled ribeye steak, wild boar ragù, aged Pecorino, roasted root vegetables

Tasting Profile

Dark cherry, plum, and tobacco with firm tannins and balanced acidity. Full-bodied with earthy minerality and dark chocolate notes, finishing long and complex.