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Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Champans, 2023

Red Wine from Burgundy, France
$239.00
Taxes and shipping calculated at checkout.
Use code 10OFF for 10% off 12+ bottles
Two-thirds of the vines behind this Volnay were planted in 1922. They are the oldest on the entire Lafon domaine, and the family often takes cuttings from them. The holding is just 0.52 hectares in En Champans, facing east on a gentle slope of deep, crumbly limestone full of small stones. It's a site that ripens early and reliably, and in Lafon's hands it gives Volnay that's dense but softer in tannin than the domaine's Santenots, with a more aromatic, floral lean. In 2023 nothing at the domaine went into the vats as whole clusters, so this Champans is fully destemmed. The vineyard is certified organic and farmed biodynamically by a house that has been in the Lafon family since 1865. This is old-vine Premier Cru Volnay made with real care, and a strong argument for taking Lafon's reds as seriously as anything else they bottle.

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Burghound

93 points

"From a .52 ha holding of 85+ year old vines planted in deep sandy soil with dense but small rocks. An even more expressive nose combines notes of red and dark currant, cherry and a various of floral elements. The gorgeously textured middle weight flavors possess a finer, if less powerful, mouthfeel on the more complex and slightly longer finish where a touch of sweetness slowly emerges. This is also lovely and equally built-to-age."

Antonio Galloni

95 points

"The 2023 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru sports a small reduction like the Clos des Chênes, but there is a little more intensity in the fruit. Finely delineated, it is also a touch more floral in style. The palate is medium-bodied with a silky texture and perfectly judged acidity, a graceful Volnay with a peacock's tail on the finish. Beautiful." —Neal Martin

Robert Parker

93 points

"The 2023 Volnay 1er Cru Champans is showing especially well this year, offering up aromas of smoky berries, cassis and orange zest, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy palate with good depth at the core. It continues a recent run of strong performances for the Lafon Champans." —William Kelley

Jancis Robinson

17 points

"Cask sample. Mid ruby. Ripe raspberry and red cherry. Bright, zesty acidity balanced by ripe fruit and refined, well-knit tannins. Quite open and inviting."

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More about Domaine des Comtes Lafon

A Meursault institution and one of the benchmarks for white Burgundy. Dominique Lafon took over from his father René in 1984, ended the old sharecropping arrangements and moved the vineyards to organic and biodynamic farming. The wines are rich but never heavy, from Meursault premiers crus like Charmes, Genevrières and Goutte d'Or to the domaine's own monopole, the Clos de la Barre next to the cellar. Built to age, and worth the patience.

See all Domaine des Comtes Lafon wines

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast chicken with morels or chanterelles; seared duck breast with a light cherry sauce; pork tenderloin with thyme and roasted shallots; mushroom risotto; oeufs en meurette.

Tasting Profile

Expect the perfumed, floral side of Volnay: red cherry, raspberry and violet, with a hint of earthy spice as it opens. Old vines on early-ripening limestone typically give a dense, concentrated mid-palate, yet the tannins stay fine and supple, with fresh acidity carrying a long, savoury, dry finish.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Pinot Noir

  • Vintage

    2023

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

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