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Terres Dorees (Jean-Paul Brun), Beaujolais L'Ancien, 2024

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Jean-Paul Brun has spent a career proving that Beaujolais doesn't need carbonic maceration to be great. L'Ancien ("the ancient") is his manifesto bottling: 50- to 80-year-old Gamay from Terres Dorees in southern Beaujolais, destemmed, native-fermented on the skins for four to six weeks in concrete or neutral wood, and raised the way you'd raise a young Burgundy. The result is a Beaujolais that reads more like village-level Cote d'Or than the gulpable Nouveau most people associate with the region: dark cherry, plum, crushed granite, violet, and a fine-grained tannic structure. Drink it now with a bit of a chill, or hold a few years and watch it knit into something Pinot drinkers will mistake for the real thing.

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More about Terres Dorees (Jean-Paul Brun)

Jean-Paul Brun refuses to make Beaujolais the modern way. No chaptalization, no commercial yeasts, traditional Burgundian vinification—his Morgon is old-school, serious, and completely delicious. This is what Gamay should taste like.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Gamay

  • Vintage

    2024

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Fruity , Juicy , Silky

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

What Bowler Wine has to say about this wine:

100% Gamay. L'Ancien comes from Jean Paul's oldest vineshence the name of the winein his home village of Charnay in the southern Beaujolais. They range in age from 40 to 60 years old and are planted on slopes sporting the area's signature sandy clay-limestone soils, featuring the particular local "dorée" or "golden" limestone that is laden with iron. These older vines have always been farmed organically and harvested by hand and yield small, thick-skinned Gamay berries. As for all Terres Dorées reds, the vinification is traditional Burgundian. The grapes are rigorously sorted and destemmed, crushed and fermented with indigenous yeasts in concrete vats. The wine is aged in concrete until May-June after the vintage.

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast chicken, coq au vin, charcuterie, or a Lyonnaise salad. Equally at home with mushroom risotto, grilled sausages, herbed lentils, or a board of soft-rind cheeses like saint-marcellin.

Tasting Profile

Deep ruby. Black cherry, fresh plum, violet, crushed granite, and a hint of cracked pepper. Medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, lifted Gamay acidity, and the kind of structured, mineral finish that rewards a small carafe or a few years.