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Lagille, Champagne "Le Mont en Peine", 2022

Sparkling Wine from Champagne, France
$109.99
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This is a vintage-dated, single-variety Champagne from a family domaine whose vineyards are mostly Meunier, and one of the house's more pointed statements. Lagille farms 7.20 hectares, 95% of them around the village of Treslon in the Marne, planted to 55% Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Noir. Only one wine in the range, the Grande Réserve, is a blend. Le Mont en Peine sits alongside Les Bergères and La Garenne as the single-variety bottlings, each made to show one grape on its own terms. You can see how seriously they farm in a small detail: the family trains even its Meunier in Cordon de Royat, a pruning system usually kept for Grand Cru Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Their stated philosophy is to accompany nature and let it express itself through the wines. That makes this light, elegant 2022 a good pick for anyone who likes a Champagne with a clear point of view.

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More about Lagille

Most Champagne houses treat Meunier as filler. At Domaine Lagille it is the backbone: more than half of the family's seven or so hectares are planted to it, and some of the best wines are pure Meunier from a single parcel.

The estate is in Treslon, a quiet village in the Vallée de l'Ardre west of Reims, where the Lagilles have grown grapes since 1818. Bernard Lagille launched the family's own Champagne label in 1975; his daughters joined in 2005 and his son Vincent in 2012, and today Vincent and his sister Maud run the place. The vines sit close to the cellar in a natural amphitheater of clay and limestone, and the farming has been in conversion to organics since 2020. Vincent is a vineyard obsessive, pruning every vine in Cordon de Royat, a method usually reserved for grand cru Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

In the cellar the aim is tension rather than richness: fermentation partly in barrel, long aging on the lees, and low dosage, sometimes none at all. The Grande Réserve, an even blend of the three grapes, is the house speaking in full sentences. The single-parcel wines, such as La Garenne (Meunier), Les Bergères (Pinot Noir) and Le Mont en Peine (Chardonnay), are where it gets really interesting. This is small-grower Champagne with real personality.

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Raw oysters with mignonette; scallop crudo with lemon and olive oil; warm gougères; sashimi or simple nigiri; fried sole with brown butter.

Tasting Profile

Expect the classic Blanc de Blancs profile: lemon, green apple and white flowers, with a light hint of brioche and a crisp, mineral edge. Typically light-bodied and elegant, with fine bubbles, bright acidity and a dry, clean, citrusy finish. Think of it as a more focused, more precise alternative to a blended house Champagne.

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Map of main subregions of the Champagne wine region.

Champagne

Champagne boasts some of the world’s greatest luxury brands with Krug, Cristal and, of course, Dom Perignon. But it’s also home to hundreds of small dynamic producers—farmers who grow their own grapes (often organically) and make (often with natural methods) tiny amounts of pure and absolutely delicious wine that reflect the individual personalities of their villages and terroirs. Toast with these wines, for sure. But also treat them like the great wines they are: taste, drink, explore!

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