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Bruno Clair, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques, 2015

by Domaine Bruno Clair
$399.00
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From a single hectare on clay-limestone soils rich with Premeaux limestone, this premier cru sits among the most sought-after offerings from Bruno Clair, with only 250 bottles produced. The 2015 vintage presents a well-defined bouquet of lifted redcurrant and wild strawberry interwoven with wet limestone and flint-like scents. Medium-bodied with very fine tannins, the wine offers 20 to 30 years of drinking pleasure, balancing elegance with the depth that defines Gevrey-Chambertin's finest sites.

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Burghound

95 points

"This is almost a hypothetical combination of the Petite Chapelle and the Cazetiers as there are elements of both on the red cherry, floral, wild berry and sauvage-scented aromas. The sense of underlying tension and vibrancy of the once again intensely mineral-driven middle weight flavors is almost irresistible as is the outstanding complexity, balance and sheer class of the finish. This hugely long effort is harmonious and sophisticated and it should also amply repay extended cellaring. Brilliant."

Antonio Galloni

96 points

"The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques 1er Cru has the most backward bouquet of the five Clos St.-Jacques at the moment, displaying a marine-like tincture of shucked oyster shells and a hint of estuary marshes that actually complement the red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and slightly lactic in style. A hint of dark chocolate emanates from the oak infusing the red and black fruit toward the finish, and touches of marmalade and blood orange linger on the aftertaste. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting." —Neal Martin

Robert Parker

93 points

"Bursting with aromas of cedar, raw cocoa, orange rind, rose petal, red cherries and dried currants, the 2015 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St Jacques is medium to full-bodied, fragrant and supple, with melting tannins, a sappy core of fruit and tangy balancing acids. It's a perfumed, beautifully balanced wine that I marked down a few points simply because it struck me as somewhat stylized, so my score will likely look conservative in a few years' time." —William Kelley

Decanter

97 points

"Elegant raspberry-dominant nose, with a sheen of new oak. Lean and pure attack, lifted and refined. Exquisite fruit and concentration, impeccably balanced." —2017-02-01 00:00:00 -0500

More about Bruno Clair

Bruno Clair's story begins the way the best Burgundy stories do — with family, land, and a fair amount of complication. His grandfather Joseph founded what would become the celebrated Domaine Clair-Daü in 1919, assembling over generations some of the Côte d'Or's most coveted parcels: Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze, Bonnes-Mares, Clos Saint-Jacques, Cazetiers. When internal family disagreements dissolved the estate in 1985, Bruno reassembled what he could, founded his own domaine, and quietly got to work.

That quiet persistence is in the wines. The holdings stretch from Marsannay down the Côte de Nuits and into the Côte de Beaune — an unusually broad range for a single domaine — and the portfolio runs the full ladder from honest village Marsannay to grand cru Clos-de-Bèze. Average vine age across the estate is 50 years, with about two-thirds of the Clos-de-Bèze planted in 1912. Old vines, serious terroir, no shortcuts.

Viticulture is sustainable, with herbicides entirely forbidden and cover crops used throughout. Fermentation relies on indigenous yeast, and the winemaking stays out of the way of the fruit. The wines are precise and cool-headed — Burgundy that rewards patience in the cellar and attention in the glass. Bruno's children Edouard, Margaux, and Arthur have joined the domaine, and the wines have never been sharper.

The Marsannays alone are worth your attention. Underestimated relative to their neighbors to the south, they consistently overdeliver. The premier and grand cru bottlings — Clos Saint-Jacques, Bonnes-Mares, Clos-de-Bèze — are the kind of wines serious collectors track vintage to vintage.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Pinot Noir

  • Vintage

    2015

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Sweetness

    Dry

Flatiron's Take

Clos Saint-Jacques is a grand cru in all but name — denied the classification in the 1930s on a technicality, not on merit, and the wine has been making that argument ever since. Only five producers own a slice of this hallowed ground. Bruno Clair has one hectare, vines planted in 1957 and 1972, and the restraint to let the terroir do the talking. It is not easy to find. If we have it, buy it.

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roasted quail, beef tenderloin, wild mushroom risotto, aged comte.

Tasting Profile

Redcurrant, wild strawberry, wet limestone, flint. Medium body, very fine tannins, elegant structure, mineral finish.