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Vollenweider, Riesling Steffensberg Spatlese, 2014

$43.99
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This is a sweet wine in the classic Mosel mold — a fruity-style Spätlese with real residual sugar and low alcohol, not a trocken or feinherb Riesling — and the Steffensberg is the friendlier of Vollenweider's two great sites. Where the Wolfer Goldgrube is spicy, mineral and slow to reveal itself, the Kröver Steffensberg sits on grey slate with a steady water supply and faces southeast to east, giving wines that are fruitier, more elegant and more open in their youth; its more exposed terrain also delivers unusually healthy fruit year after year. Both vineyards were half-forgotten before Daniel Vollenweider, a Swiss convert who arrived in the Mosel in 1999, took them on and started making prädikat Rieslings that even dedicated drinkers of dry wine admire. 2014 was a year that separated the diligent from the rest: a cold, wet August and October rain brought rot and the newly arrived spotted-wing drosophila, and only rigorous picking and sorting produced clean, lively wine. Twelve years in bottle have brought this one into its honeyed second act, and it is drinking beautifully now.

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Antonio Galloni

88 points

"Overripe peach is accented with talcum on the nose and informs a palpably extract-rich palate, if one lacking the clarity of the best Vollenweider offerings of this vintage. The finish displays something of the same sweet-tart tension as was observed in this year’s Goldgrube Kabinett, which might well prove a satisfying source of energy with time." —David Schildknecht

Robert Parker

90 points

"The 2014 Kröver Steffensberg Riesling Spätlese offers a clear and elegant bouquet with bright Riesling and herbal slate aromas. Sweet and piquant on the palate, this is a very elegant, balanced, and nicely salty and grippy Riesling that should be drunk in 8-10 years at the earliest." —Stephan Reinhardt

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More about Vollenweider

Farming old vines on the steep slopes of the Middle Mosel is hard work. And it doesn't pay well. With German wine prices staying so stubbornly low, we shouldn't be surprised that so many vineyard-owning families in earlier generations simply stopped working.

So, what motivates the growers who work so hard on such crazy sites, if not money? Sheer passion.

A small crop of vintners has come along, a new generation that's very interested in the old vines left fallow by their predecessors. Their interest, of course, is not from the point of view of agri-business, but something far more soulful. They feel a connection to the land and its history. They love Riesling, and they are in the middle of the greatest Riesling terroir on earth. They have very special land with very special old vines and they desperately want to see what kind of wine it can make.

The tragic passing of Daniel Vollenweider in the summer of 2022 left a hole in the Mosel wine community. Daniel was a beloved figure who produced a collection of glorious, terroir-transparent wines that helped define the style of contemporary Mosel Riesling.

Thankfully, Daniel laid out careful plans for the future of his eponymous estate, preparing his protégé, Moritz Hoffmann, to lead the winery into its next phase. Now in his third solo vintage, Moritz has truly come into his own as one of the Mosel’s top growers, bringing the estate to stunning new heights.

The domaine is rich in prime terroir, with ancient, un-grafted vines on the ultra-steep grand cru Wolfer Goldgrube. Here, Moritz crafts tiny quantities of wine with an almost maniacal attention to detail. All vineyard work is performed by hand (of course). The fruit is pressed in an old-school vertical basket press, fermented naturally, and aged in either stainless steel or large, neutral oak barrels. The wines are crystalline and pure, with gorgeous aromatics, incisive acidity, and unending length.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2014

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Sweetness

    Off-Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast duck with cherries, pork belly with apple, Thai larb or a coconut curry, smoked ham, or a wedge of Roquefort.

Tasting Profile

Ripe peach, apricot and mandarin turning toward honey, dried herbs and a hint of petrol with age. Medium-bodied and distinctly sweet, with vivid, mouth-watering acidity and a long, clean finish.

WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!