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Baias e Enseadas, Escolha Pessoal Malvasia, 2021

White Wine from Other Portugal, Portugal
by Baias e Enseadas
$38.99
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Malvasia grown a few kilometers from the Atlantic in Colares, one of Europe's most nearly extinct wine regions, and this bottling is a selection of the best barrels of the vintage. Daniel Afonso came to wine from outside it entirely, planted his first vines in 2013 on calcareous clay a few kilometers from the ocean in Colares, and joined the small movement pulling Colares back from the brink after decades of coastal development swallowed its old sand-planted vineyards. Because his vines are grafted and on clay rather than ungrafted in sand, the wine is labeled Lisboa rather than Colares DOC, a technicality that says nothing about where it actually grew: squarely in the cold ocean air the Sintra mountains trap against the coast. Fermentation begins in stainless steel at 16 to 18 degrees Celsius and finishes in used French oak, followed by six months on the lees with weekly stirring, which is where the texture comes from. Farming is sustainable, sulfur is kept low, and at 12% alcohol this is a serious white that stays light on its feet.

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More about Baias e Enseadas

Baías e Enseadas makes whites from one of the most Atlantic corners of Portugal: the hills around Sintra and Colares, just west of Lisbon, where ocean mist and wind roll in off the coast and ripeness never comes easily. The name means "bays and coves," though the vines themselves sit a few kilometers inland.

This is a young project, and a personal one. Daniel Afonso came to it from the hospitality side (he previously ran a wine bar), prepared his first vineyard, Ribeirinha in Codiceira, in 2012 and planted it the following year, working only with Portuguese grape varieties. The soils are clay-limestone, with clay dominating at Ribeirinha and limestone at a second site; Afonso blends the two because the clay gives breadth and the limestone gives finesse.

The range centers on varietal whites from local grapes such as Malvasia, Arinto and Fernão Pires. Most are labeled Lisboa rather than Colares, a technicality of appellation law rather than a matter of geography. The whites typically ferment in stainless steel and finish or age in used oak on their lees, and alcohol stays moderate. Expect salty, textured, cool-climate whites with real acidity, made in small quantities by someone helping to keep this coastal wine country alive.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Malvasia

  • Vintage

    2021

  • Size

    750ml

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Grilled sardines, salt cod fritters, clams with garlic and coriander, or an octopus salad. The oceanic salinity makes almost any Atlantic seafood a natural match.

Tasting Profile

Aromas of citrus, white flowers, a touch of tropical fruit and a distinct sea-salt note. Medium bodied with a creamy, lees-built texture, balanced by brisk acidity and a stony, saline core. Dry, mineral, gently savory finish.

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