A 100% Meunier Champagne fermented entirely in oak barrels the estate makes itself, from trees in its own park. That's the headline here: where most Meunier gets blended away into a house style, Ullens gives it the full barrel treatment and bottles it Extra Brut, chasing concentration and tension rather than the easy, airy version of the grape. The initials L.P.M do double duty, standing for both le Pinot Meunier and Le Parc de Marzilly, the source of those barrels. Maxime Ullens, a Belgian architect with no roots in Champagne, bought the abandoned Domaine de Marzilly in 2012 meaning only to renovate a farmhouse, then enrolled at the viticultural school in Avize; the purchase came with a tiny parcel of ungrafted vines that phylloxera never touched, because the sand here is too pure for the louse. The vines were taken on in organic conversion, with the farming guided by soil analysis. For anyone who thinks Meunier is the filler grape, this is the rebuttal.