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Vollenweider, Riesling Goldgrube "Unterste Jonpfad" Trocken, 2024

$36.99
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Two small springs surface from the rock above this parcel and trickle down through it, so even in the hottest Mosel summers the vines here never go into drought stress — the single most useful thing to know about Unterste Jonpfad. It is the western-most and coolest of Vollenweider's dry Goldgrube parcels, west-facing on grey slate with a little red slate mixed in, framed by forest and scrub that hold moisture in the soil and release it slowly. Daniel Vollenweider recultivated and replanted the entire 1.5-hectare plot in his final years, using massal-selection cuttings taken from old own-rooted vines in the Goldgrube and the neighboring Schimbock, so the young vines carry the genetic material of the historic ones. The name means roughly the lower path of Jon, after an old vineyard track still visible today that once ran down the slope to a ferry landing on the river. Deeper, more fertile soil makes this the juiciest of the three dry parcel wines — and it is bone dry, Trocken, with no residual sweetness.

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More about Vollenweider

Farming old vines on the steep slopes of the Middle Mosel is hard work. And it doesn't pay well. With German wine prices staying so stubbornly low, we shouldn't be surprised that so many vineyard-owning families in earlier generations simply stopped working.

So, what motivates the growers who work so hard on such crazy sites, if not money? Sheer passion.

A small crop of vintners has come along, a new generation that's very interested in the old vines left fallow by their predecessors. Their interest, of course, is not from the point of view of agri-business, but something far more soulful. They feel a connection to the land and its history. They love Riesling, and they are in the middle of the greatest Riesling terroir on earth. They have very special land with very special old vines and they desperately want to see what kind of wine it can make.

The tragic passing of Daniel Vollenweider in the summer of 2022 left a hole in the Mosel wine community. Daniel was a beloved figure who produced a collection of glorious, terroir-transparent wines that helped define the style of contemporary Mosel Riesling.

Thankfully, Daniel laid out careful plans for the future of his eponymous estate, preparing his protégé, Moritz Hoffmann, to lead the winery into its next phase. Now in his third solo vintage, Moritz has truly come into his own as one of the Mosel’s top growers, bringing the estate to stunning new heights.

The domaine is rich in prime terroir, with ancient, un-grafted vines on the ultra-steep grand cru Wolfer Goldgrube. Here, Moritz crafts tiny quantities of wine with an almost maniacal attention to detail. All vineyard work is performed by hand (of course). The fruit is pressed in an old-school vertical basket press, fermented naturally, and aged in either stainless steel or large, neutral oak barrels. The wines are crystalline and pure, with gorgeous aromatics, incisive acidity, and unending length.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2024

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Trout with almonds, chicken schnitzel, spring vegetable risotto, goat cheese salad, or Vietnamese summer rolls.

Tasting Profile

Herbal and spicy up front — green apple, lime, wild herbs — with a juicy mid-palate. Light to medium-bodied, vibrant ripe acidity, clean dry finish.

WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!