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Honorio Rubio, Rioja Blanco Lias Finas, 2018

by Honorio Rubio
$32.99
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In a region that made its name on Tempranillo, Honorio Rubio bet on everything else — the whites and claretes of Rioja Alta that most bodegas treat as an afterthought. Lias Finas takes its name from its method: long, patient aging on fine lees, the old trick that builds texture and savory depth into a wine without any need for heavy oak. The result has real weight on the palate, with ripe apple and bright lemon zest pulled taut against decidedly earthy notes of smoke, hay and mushroom. Time in bottle has only pushed that savory side further forward. This is a small family cellar with more than a century of accumulated know-how and very little interest in doing things the easy way. If your idea of Rioja stops at oak and red fruit, start here.

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Robert Parker

93 points

"The smoky 2018 Lías Finas was kept in contact with the lees for some 16 months. It has a characterful and smoky nose with hints of honey and lemon candy and something spicy/nutty that transported me to the Jura. It has a fresh and light palate with 13% alcohol and a long, dry and tasty finish. 2,934 bottles produced." —Luis Gutiérrez

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More about Bodegas Honorio Rubio

In a region that made its name on Tempranillo and long oak aging, Honorio Rubio has built his reputation on everything else: white Rioja from Viura, and clarete, the pale, old-fashioned blend of white and red grapes for which his village, Cordovín, was once so famous that its name became a byword for the style.

Cordovín sits at about 600 meters in the upper Najerilla Valley, on the southern edge of Rioja. The village never had a cooperative; families made their own wine, and Garnacha and Viura were traditionally planted side by side. Honorio worked the vines with his grandfather as a boy and handled his first harvest alone at fifteen, and the bodega began bottling its own wine in 1988. Today he works with about 80 hectares of vines on red soils, largely farmed by long-standing local growers.

The winemaking is traditional and hands-off: spontaneous fermentations, no malolactic for the whites and claretes, and long aging on the fine lees, the lías finas, in cement and large oak, for texture and depth without oaky flavor. The range runs from the everyday Tremendus clarete to the Lías Finas white and clarete, a skin-fermented Macerado and Añadas, a Viura from a solera. Deeply savory wines that recall the old whites and rosados of López de Heredia.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Viura

  • Vintage

    2018

  • Size

    750ml

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast chicken with herbs, mushroom risotto, grilled vegetables, aged Manchego, or a plate of jamon and marcona almonds.

Tasting Profile

Textured and savory. Ripe apple and lemon zest up front, earthy smoke, hay and mushroom underneath, with a long leesy finish.