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Burlotto, Barolo Cannubi, 2012

$299.00
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G.B. Burlotto was founded in 1850 by Giovan Battista Burlotto in Verduno, achieving superstardom rivaling Biondi-Santi and Vega Sicilia. He pioneered selling Barolo in bottle and served as official supplier to Italy's Royal House of Savoy. After passing through generations, Fabio Alessandria (fifth generation) has propelled the estate back to prominence with perfect scores for wines like Barolo Monvigliero. Cannubi is Barolo's most famous vineyard—bluish-gray marls rich in magnesium and manganese carbonates, approximately 55% clay, 30% sand, 15% limestone. The 2012 vintage featured extremely cold winter, cool spring, medium-hot summer, then September cooling that helped aromatic concentration. Harvest occurred early October with yields 20% below normal. The resulting wine is light to medium-bodied with beautiful light fruit and fine chalky tannin—very classic with great varietal purity, moderate acidity, and exceptional balance. 2012 represents the first of the "cool trio" (2012-2014) offering incredible finesse in a less alcoholic way, like classic vintages from the 1980s-90s.

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Antonio Galloni

95 points

"The 2012 Barolo Cannubi is a little bit darker than Burlotto's Verduno Barolos, with all of the striking mid-palate silkiness and creaminess that is such a signature of Cannubi. Beguiling and totally seamless, the 2012 feels like velvet on the palate. The exquisitely layered, seamless finish is a thing of beauty. Burlottos' Cannubi doesn't get a lot of play, perhaps because it was made in a more modern style up until a few years ago, but it has all the pedigree of the better known wines in this range. The 2012 is superb." —Antonio Galloni

Kerin O'Keefe

90 points

"Aromas of leather, licorice, underbrush and chopped herb carry over to the palate together with tart red cherry, strawberry and star anise. Assertive but refined tannins offer support. Drink 2018–2024." —Kerin O'Keefe

More about Burlotto

Burlotto is the flagship producer from Barolo’s Verduno area. This is a property of enormous historic importance, fabulously delicious wines, and outstanding value.

The Commendatore Giovan Battista Burlotto, one of Barolo's great characters, founded the estate back in 1850. The labels still commemorate the royal house of Savoy’s fondness for Burlotto wines, as well as the winery’s exclusive presence on Duke Luigi Amedeo's 1899 North Pole expedition. The Duke lost two fingers to frostbite, but wrote to the Commendatore a year and a half into the trip that “[t]he wine has been conserved in perfect condition.” G.B. Burlotto was also a pioneer of selling wine in bottle (rather than in cask or demijohn), as well as a champion of a now-rare but still-ravishing grape, Pelaverga Piccolo.

Four generations later, G.B.’s great-great-nephew, Fabio Alessandria, has changed little at the winery, doing some of the crush by foot, fermenting the wine in upright wooden vats, using indigenous yeast and little temperature control. We love these wines for their history, but even more for their diversity, their pure fruit, delicate structure, and signature Verduno floral aromatics and spicy palate.

The family's single-vineyard Barolos, especially the culty Monvigliero, are some of Piedmont's most lauded wines, critical and collector favorites year-in and year-out. But they continue to make extraordinary wines for Piedmont's more humble grapes (including Dolcetto, Barbera and of course, that Pelaverga), wines that don't attempt to turn those grapes into Nebbiolo blockbusters but rather that show their unique charms and terroir transparency. The sheer drinkability of these "lesser" wines is is tremendous, and the pricing for such special bottles from such top-rank grower, is shockingly accessible.

Wine Details

  • Vintage

    2012

  • Size

    750ml

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Beef short ribs, lamb ragu, aged Pecorino, truffle pasta

Tasting Profile

Young, concentrated Barolo with dark cherry, licorice, and spice. Full body, firm tannins, and a long, powerful finish.