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Burlotto, Barolo Cannubi, 2013

$379.00
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Cannubi is arguably Barolo's most storied vineyard, and Burlotto's expression of it is both historically faithful and compellingly modern. Founded in 1850 by Giovan Battista Burlotto—one of the first producers to sell Barolo in bottle rather than cask—the estate faded into obscurity after his death until fifth-generation Fabio Alessandria revived it to its current prominence. The Cannubi vineyard occupies a unique position where Barolo's two main soil zones meet: blue-grey marl providing structure and power, sandy limestone lending elegance and perfume. Fabio retains whole clusters for up to sixty days of maceration, a nod to the estate's historical approach. The 2013 vintage is one for the patient: finesse and marked acidity over substantial tannic backbone, with classical structure reminiscent of the great 2006. Cherry pit, limestone, dried herbs, and wildflowers emerge from a tightly wound, deeply concentrated core. This will be explosive in another decade. Decant generously if opening now.

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Antonio Galloni

97 points

"Burlotto’s 2013 Barolo Cannubi is a showstopper. Literally. Conversation stops as attendees taste the 2013. This is what top-flight Barolo is all about. In 2013, the Monvigliero has gotten most of the attention, and for good reason. It is a truly monumental wine. But the Cannubi is not that far behind. On this night, it is positively dazzling and every bit as profound as it has always been. The Cannubi has really soared in recent years as proprietor Fabio Alessandria has brought it inline stylistically with his other wines." —Antonio Galloni

Robert Parker

93 points

"The 2013 Barolo Cannubi is a refined and elegant wine with a slightly shy or inward-looking personality. The bouquet reveals a complex embroidery of floral aromas with roses, violets and medicinal herbs. There's a touch of soapy lavender as well. The mouthfeel is moderate in length and mild in terms of power. It definitely proceeds over the palate with caution. The wine's whispery voice is nuanced and softly-articulated." —Monica Larner

Wine Spectator

93 points

"This fragrant version offers aromas of sweet cherry, with cranberry, cherry and floral notes. Elegant, yet also possesses fine depth, structure, harmony and length."

Kerin O'Keefe

92 points

"This fragrant wine will entice with you its heady perfume of woodland berry, wild herb, graphite and blue flower. It's still quite young and tightly wound, delivering strawberry, red cherry, white pepper and thyme wrapped up in taut tannins. Vibrant acidity provides balance and energy but give this time to fully develop. Drink 2023–2033." —Kerin O'Keefe

More about Burlotto

Burlotto is the flagship producer from Barolo’s Verduno area. This is a property of enormous historic importance, fabulously delicious wines, and outstanding value.

The Commendatore Giovan Battista Burlotto, one of Barolo's great characters, founded the estate back in 1850. The labels still commemorate the royal house of Savoy’s fondness for Burlotto wines, as well as the winery’s exclusive presence on Duke Luigi Amedeo's 1899 North Pole expedition. The Duke lost two fingers to frostbite, but wrote to the Commendatore a year and a half into the trip that “[t]he wine has been conserved in perfect condition.” G.B. Burlotto was also a pioneer of selling wine in bottle (rather than in cask or demijohn), as well as a champion of a now-rare but still-ravishing grape, Pelaverga Piccolo.

Four generations later, G.B.’s great-great-nephew, Fabio Alessandria, has changed little at the winery, doing some of the crush by foot, fermenting the wine in upright wooden vats, using indigenous yeast and little temperature control. We love these wines for their history, but even more for their diversity, their pure fruit, delicate structure, and signature Verduno floral aromatics and spicy palate.

The family's single-vineyard Barolos, especially the culty Monvigliero, are some of Piedmont's most lauded wines, critical and collector favorites year-in and year-out. But they continue to make extraordinary wines for Piedmont's more humble grapes (including Dolcetto, Barbera and of course, that Pelaverga), wines that don't attempt to turn those grapes into Nebbiolo blockbusters but rather that show their unique charms and terroir transparency. The sheer drinkability of these "lesser" wines is is tremendous, and the pricing for such special bottles from such top-rank grower, is shockingly accessible.

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Beef tenderloin, lamb shanks, aged hard cheeses, truffle-infused dishes

Tasting Profile

Intense young Barolo with cherry, licorice, and mineral character. Full body, firm tannins with silky texture, and a long finish.