Pinot Noir from the Mosel, grown on slate in one of the region's great Riesling sites — and grafted onto the Riesling vines themselves. This Reserve is the top of Daniel Twardowski's tiny range, drawn from his oldest parcel in the Dhroner Hofberg, where 40- to 70-year-old Riesling rootstock now carries Burgundian Pinot. The Hofberg is a historic grand cru in a side valley at the western end of the Mittelmosel near Neumagen-Dhron, steep to very steep and constantly ventilated by cool wind off the Hunsrück — which is exactly why this reads as a cool-climate Pinot rather than a ripe one. Winemaking is old-school and unhurried: open-top spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts, about two weeks on the skins, a traditional basket press, 18 months in used Burgundy and Bordeaux barriques, then another two years in bottle before it's allowed out. Twardowski's stated goal is a Pinot with the filigree of slate-grown Riesling and the drinkability of good Rhône Syrah — not a Burgundy imitation. With total production across the estate running eight to nine thousand bottles a year and no plans to grow, the Reserve is never going to be easy to find.