Pinot Noir from the Mosel — and not as a curiosity, but from Dhroner Hofberg, a Grosse Lage site in a side valley near Neumagen-Dhron that made its name with Riesling. Daniel Twardowski's whole argument is that the slate there is just as good a home for Pinot: he has declared his Hofberg holdings a Riesling-free zone and grows nothing but Spätburgunder there. The site is steep to very steep and constantly ventilated by cool wind coming off the Hunsrück, which is exactly the kind of place that keeps red-fruit aromatics taut rather than jammy. Twardowski says outright that he isn't interested in making a me-too Burgundy — he wants the filigree of slate-grown Riesling and the easy drinkability of Rhône Syrah to show up in a Pinot glass. Everything is worked by hand, at yields low enough to be slightly unreasonable. For anyone who thinks they know what German Pinot tastes like, this is the bottle that reopens the question.