Clos de Vougeot is the largest grand cru in the Côte de Nuits — fifty-odd hectares walled off by Cistercian monks and split today among some eighty owners — so which corner of it you are drinking matters enormously. Coquard-Loison-Fleurot's parcel sits in the lower, clay-heavy part of the clos on vines planted around seventy years ago, and you can taste that clay in the deep, earthy red fruit even as Thomas Colladot's handling keeps the wine sleeker than the address usually suggests. The family sold fruit to négociants for generations and only began bottling under its own label in 2009/2010; Colladot works with a long cold soak of around nine days before a three-week fermentation, roughly thirty percent whole cluster, eighteen months in barrel, no fining and no filtration. 2017 was generous and classically proportioned in the Côte de Nuits, ripe but fresh, which suits a grand cru with this much substance. From a private cellar — decant it, or leave it alone for another decade.