Champans is the broad, generous one — the site where d'Angerville's silk picks up some flesh. The domaine's 3.98 hectares sit mid-slope in the center of the Volnay premier crus on a southeast face, rocky limestone where the soil is poorest at the top, deeper clay and stones as the slope tapers, and the combination gives one of the richest wines in a cellar otherwise known for restraint. Marquis d'Angerville is the estate that made Volnay's reputation: Sem d'Angerville faced down the négociants and began bottling at the domaine in the 1920s, and Guillaume has farmed biodynamically since 2006. In the domaine's ladder this sits well above the village Volnay and the premier cru blend, with only the walled monopole Clos des Ducs above it. 2008 was a vintage of vivid, pure red fruit and lively freshness rather than weight, which suits Champans nicely; at nearly two decades this back-vintage bottle has settled into its savory phase and is ready to pour.