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Domaine Michel Lafarge, Volnay Vendanges Selectionnees, 2010

$149.99
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Burghound

91 points

"This is slightly fresher and a bit more complex than the straight Volnay villages with its pretty and well-layered nose of red currant, plum and warm earth scents. There is excellent intensity to the detailed and mouth coating flavors that possess a firm but not hard tannic spine before terminating in a dusty, persistent and mineral-inflected finish. I very much like the sense of poise as well as the perfectly ripe phenolics." —Allen Meadows

Antonio Galloni

91 points

"Medium red. Ripe, slightly liqueur-like red berries on the nose. Superrich, fat and full; really generous in the mid-palate for village wine. Lush yet light on its feet, with intense flavors of red fruits and spices. The chewy tannins have plenty of support. This will always be good, notes Frederic Lafarge; still, I'd want to hold it until 2016." —Stephen Tanzer

More about Michel Lafarge

If you ask Burgundy lovers to name the definitive Volnay grower, Lafarge is very often the first answer: an unshowy family domaine whose wines are pure, delicate and astonishingly long-lived, and a pioneer of biodynamic farming on the Côte d'Or.

The Lafarges trace their roots in Volnay to the early 19th century. Michel Lafarge's father bought the Clos du Château des Ducs, a premier cru monopole, in 1900, and the family began bottling its own wine in 1934. Michel ran the estate for some sixty years, joined by his son Frédéric from 1978, and together they converted the vineyards to biodynamics in 1996. Since Michel's death in 2020, Frédéric and his wife Chantal have run the domaine with their daughter Clothilde.

The holdings come to roughly ten to twelve hectares in around thirty parcels, mostly in Volnay, with premier crus including Clos des Chênes, Caillerets and Mitans, plus Beaune, Pommard and Meursault. Reds are fully destemmed, fermented with native yeasts and aged in mostly old barrels. Don't overlook the humbler bottlings, the Bourgogne Rouge, Passetoutgrains and Aligoté, which get the same care. Frédéric and Chantal also make Beaujolais under the Lafarge-Vial label.

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Burgundy is one of the world's most complex and rewarding wine regions — and one of the most misunderstood. This guide breaks it all down, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south.