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Donnhoff, Riesling Oberhauser Brucke GG VDP Auction, 2015

White Wine from Mosel, Germany
by Donnhoff
$339.00
Use code 10OFF to get 10% off 12+ bottles

This is one of the rarest Rieslings in Germany. Oberhäuser Brücke is the Dönnhoff family monopole — a tiny site on a curve of the Nahe — and 2015 was the first vintage in nearly two decades that they made a dry Grosses Gewächs from it, releasing only a single fuder of wine that went exclusively to the annual VDP Bad Kreuznach auction. Total production was somewhere around 1,000 liters. The 2015 vintage itself was a great one for the Nahe, and the wine — built on slate, porphyry, and sandstone — has the depth and drive Dönnhoff is famous for. Now a decade on, it's drinking in its early prime and will hold for years yet. A unicorn bottle from one of Germany's greatest estates.

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Antonio Galloni

93 points

"Helmut Dönnhoff spent many years honing his wine portfolio in an attempt to let a given site optimize what he calls its “talent,” which he decided was usually more strongly oriented in one direction or the other: either toward dry wine or toward residual sweetness. (Hermannshöhle, he decided, had too much talent in both directions not to produce from it both Grosses Gewächs and residually sweet Spätlese.) Now, Helmut and Cornelius Dönnhoff have decided that “at least in some vintages” Brücke’s trocken talent should not be overlooked – which I would say was already clear from the Brücke Spätlese trocken bottlings that this estate turned out routinely in the 1980s and 1990s! (Though, admittedly, Dönnhoff farmed only half as many Einzellagen back then, so many of today’s sites weren’t available for trocken bottlings.) Perhaps signaling an acknowledgement of my point, the label from that era has been reproduced for this first-ever Brücke Grosses Gewächs. The bad news is that it represents a mere 900 750s and a contingent of magnums, all offered solely at auction, so one of them will set you back twice as much as would the corresponding Hermannshöhle or Dellchen. Site-typical fresh red raspberry and zesty grapefruit mingle with spruce resin and cooling green herbal essences in a strikingly intense nose, anticipating the concentrated fruit and herbal mélange on a silken palate. The finish clings with sappy, resinous and glowing fruit pip piquancy allied to animating berry seed crunch." —David Schildknecht

Robert Parker

94 points

"The auctioned 2015 Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling GG (AP #30 16) has been made for the first time since 1998. The wine has a very clear, pure and stony bouquet with some nutty or almond flavors and reveals great finesse and freshness, but is more closed and masculine than the other crus. Full-bodied, intense and elegant on the palate, this is a powerful, vital, tightly woven and racy Riesling with grip, tension and more body and tannins. This is a more rural type of Riesling for a Riesling-lover who prefers richer, more full-bodied and powerful wines--other Dönnhoff wines are more on the bright, finessed and dancing style. It was picked very late--the latest of all the dry crus. It was picked a few days after the Spätlese and Auslese, since there was almost no botrytis or frost to produce a noble sweet wine or even an Eiswein. Total production: roughly 1000 liters." —Stephan Reinhardt

More about Donnhoff

If you love Riesling, you know the name Dönnhoff. If you don't love Riesling-- yet-- Dönnhoff will teach you why the grape inspires such passion.

Dönnhoff is the greatest estate in the Nahe and one of the best in all of Germany. The family has had four generations to dive deep into their terroir and perfect their winemaking. Their top wines are long-lived and collectible.

That terroir is, of course, key. The Nahe has the most varied soils (including, especially, different kinds of volcanic soil) of any German region, as well as a climate that ranges from very cold high-elevation sites to pockets of Mediterranean warmth. This gives Dönnhoff a painter’s palette of flavors and textures from which to craft a perfect wine.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2015

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast pork with crackling, scallops with brown butter, a whole roast fish, or aged Alpine cheese. Strong enough for richer dishes; precise enough for the simplest preparation.

Tasting Profile

Yellow plum, dried apricot, candied citrus peel, and beeswax over a deep core of wet stone and crushed slate. The palate is dry, layered, and intensely mineral, with a whiplash acidity and a long, smoky-saline finish that drives on and on.

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WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!

Learn more about German Wines