A ten-year-old dry Riesling from the estate that put Central Otago on the map — and the bottling almost nobody outside New Zealand gets to drink. Felton Road is famous the world over for its single-vineyard Pinot Noirs, but the Rieslings and Chardonnays are made in small quantities and rarely travel; this is the driest of three Rieslings the house makes each year. The fruit comes from Block 2 of the Elms vineyard, an east-facing gravel outwash fan of very deep angular schist gravels under a thin skin of loess — the kind of free-draining, low-vigour ground that gives Riesling its nerve. Everything in that block is done by hand, from shoot thinning to harvest, on a single vertical-shoot-positioned canopy with cover crops between the rows. The estate exists because Stewart Elms went looking, in 1991, for the warmest sites in all of Central Otago and found them at the end of Felton Road in Bannockburn — that's the elm tree on the label. Blair Walter has made every wine here since the first commercial vintage in 1997, which is a rare kind of continuity. With a decade in bottle, this is drinking in the window where dry Riesling gets interesting.