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Ghislaine Barthod, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Beaux Bruns, 2023

Red Wine from Burgundy, France
by Ghislaine Barthod
$224.99
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The darkest and most muscular wine in the Barthod cellar, and at three-quarters of a hectare of fifty-year-old vines it is also her largest premier cru holding. Aux Beaux Bruns sits at the northern end of the commune on the lower part of the slope, below the Les Groseilles climat, and its soil is the outlier in Chambolle: chalky marl with a high clay content under loose rocky topsoil, which holds water and gives the fruit real flesh where most of the village gives perfume. The result is a Chambolle with dark fruit, broad shoulders and a high-toned, almost amaro-like spice, with more grip than the commune's reputation would lead you to expect. Barthod's cellar work stays deliberately quiet, with partial destemming, native yeasts and roughly twenty months in barrel using a fifth to a quarter new oak, so the site does the talking. 2023's huge crop had to be cut back hard in the vineyard to make wines this concentrated, and the fruit that came in was clean and floral without any sense of overripeness. Give it a couple of years, or a long decant now, and expect it to run into the late 2030s.

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Burghound

92 points

"A more deeply pitched nose proffers its aromas of plum, black cherry, anise, floral and discreet exotic tea wisps. Gorgeously textured and caressing middle weight flavors possess both good richness and punch while displaying a very subtle bead of minerality that adds a sense of lift on the compact and lingering if ever-so-mildly tangy finale." —Allen Meadows

Antonio Galloni

94 points

"The 2023 Chambolle-Musigny Aux Beaux Bruns 1er Cru has a deeper, richer, more tertiary nose than the preceding Aux Combottes. Touches of brown spice emerge with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip, good structure and complexity. This is a little sauvage and savory toward the lingering finish. It's not quite up there with the superlative 2022, but it will give 15 to 20 years of drinking pleasure." —Neal Martin

Jancis Robinson

17 points

"Subdued but not inexpressive. A long, stony spine and sense of old pine needles and bay leaves and autumn and truffles. The fruit feels as if it’s been carved from red, dipped in orange and framed in driftwood. Really fragrant finish. Introvert elegance." —Tamlyn Currin

More about Ghislaine Barthod

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast duck, squab with lentils, beef daube, or a deeply savory mushroom risotto. It has the structure for a hard aged cheese like Comte.

Tasting Profile

Black cherry, blackberry and dried herbs with baking spice and a bitter-orange edge. Fuller-bodied for Chambolle, with firm tannins and good acidity. Broad, spiced, long finish.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Pinot Noir

  • Vintage

    2023

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Map of Burgundy Wine Region

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Complete Guide to Burgundy

Burgundy is one of the world's most complex and rewarding wine regions — and one of the most misunderstood. This guide breaks it all down, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south.

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