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Gunther Steinmetz, Riesling Trocken Wiltinger Rosenberg "Alte Reben", 2021

$30.99
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Here Stefan Steinmetz strays from his Middle Mosel home base to the cooler, higher-strung Saar, and the change of address shows. The Wiltinger Rosenberg is a grey-slate slope in Wiltingen, and this old-vine ("Alte Reben") cuvee is bottled bone-dry, with several months in oak adding a whisper of texture to the Saar's steely core. Expect a leaner, more crystalline kind of Riesling than his Mosel bottlings: taut, high-acid, and unapologetically dry. An outlier in the range, and a fascinating one.

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More about Gunther Steinmetz

Stefan Steinmetz is one of the Mosel's most restless talents: a grower with some of the Middle Mosel's great steep slate in his holdings who is just as likely to hand you a Pinot Noir, or even a Chenin Blanc, as a Kabinett.

The estate is based in Brauneberg, in the heart of the Middle Mosel, where Stefan's grandfather was among the first in the village to bottle wine under his own name. Stefan took over as a teenager after his father's sudden death in 1998 and has built it up since; today he runs it with his wife, Sammie.

The vineyard list reads like a roll call of famous sites: Brauneberger Juffer, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Dhroner Hofberg. But the soul of the range is in Wintrich, where he holds prime positions in the Geierslay and Ohligsberg, steep south-facing slopes of purple slate and quartzite. The farming avoids herbicides, insecticides and chemical fertilizers, everything is picked by hand at low yields, and in the cellar every wine ferments spontaneously in large wood or steel, with no added yeasts and no fining agents.

The Rieslings run from bone-dry to classic fruity Kabinett, and the Pinot Noir is grown on slate and raised in neutral oak. Expect savory, slate-driven wines with real texture and a curious mind behind them.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2021

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Raw and lightly dressed shellfish, grilled white fish, goat cheese, or a shaved-vegetable salad.

Tasting Profile

Bone-dry and light-bodied. Green apple and citrus with a steely, crystalline character and vivid, cutting acidity.

WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!