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Hofgut Falkenstein, Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Spatlese AP #14, 2017

White Wine from Mosel, Germany
by Hofgut Falkenstein
$55.99
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In most years AP #14 is a single cask from the Ternes parcel; in 2017 it came from two, Förster and Ternes, both high up in the Krettnacher Euchariusberg — exactly the kind of difference the Webers' cask-by-cask bottling exists to make visible. 2017 was the frost year: an April freeze took a third or more of the Mosel crop, the worst losses since 1991, and the fruit that survived arrived with high sugar and high acid at once. The result is a Spätlese carrying around 60 grams of sugar that tastes far tauter than that number suggests, because there is so much malic acidity underneath. Erich Weber and his son Johannes ferment on ambient yeasts in thousand-liter oak and bottle straight from the cask without blending, which is why the AP number does the work a cuvée name would do anywhere else. From a private cellar; the most structured of the Spätlesen here and the one with the longest road ahead.

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Antonio Galloni

94 points

"With this bottling from two steep parcels in the once-renowned Gross Schock sector, some of the green herbal elements featured in many other vintage 2017 Weber Rieslings are unleashed in force, with mint, pennyroyal, cress and oregano reaching garden-weeding intensity. Elements of green tea and lime peel add to the wine’s aromatic pungency. Brightly juicy apple and white peach emerge on the satiny palate, along with a vivid impression of stony mineral impingements that, when taken together with the aforementioned pungent and zesty elements, makes for a finish of mouth-shaking vibrancy. What’s more, its sense of sheer penetration is rapier, and an influx of marine mineral matter adds further complexity and tug on the salivary glands. Although there are some 60 grams of sugar here, sweetness was the last thing on my mind." —David Schildknecht

Robert Parker

94 points

"From two parcels (Förster and Ternes) in the upper Gewanne of the cru, the 2017 Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Spätlese (AP 14) is discreet and delicate on the nose, which still offers yeasty and discreetly flinty notes. Concentrated and ripe fruit aromas emerge only later. Sweet and lush but carried by enormous acidity and grippy-mineral tension, this is a potent, age-worthy Spätlese that will develop over the years into a great wine. Tasted in June 2019." —Stephan Reinhardt

More about Hofgut Falkenstein

The Webers bought this Saar estate in 1981 and decided to do everything in barrel—fermentation, elevage, everything. No tanks at all. Each Fuder gets bottled separately, a restoration of old-time practice that lets you taste the micro-variations between casks from the same site. Minimal intervention since 2021-certified organic; this is Mosel winemaking as philosophy.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2017

  • Size

    750ml

  • Sweetness

    Off-Dry

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Korean fried chicken, butter chicken with naan, crab curry, or a ripe Munster with caraway seeds.

Tasting Profile

Quince, grapefruit, dried apricot and slate smoke. Real sweetness on entry, then a wall of malic acidity that pulls it back dry; light-bodied but concentrated, with a firm, mouthwatering, very long finish.

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WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!

Learn more about German Wines