Poissenot is Humbert Frères' signature bottling, and it comes from one of the highest, stoniest sites in the Combe de Lavaux — Entroques limestone topped with Ostrea marl, which is exactly why it turns out one of the most mineral Gevreys anyone makes. The Humberts are cousins of the Dugat family, farming seven hectares across Gevrey-Chambertin and Fixin with old vines, hand work timed to the lunar calendar, and chemicals kept to a minimum. Fruit gets about a week of cold maceration in concrete before a year and a half in barrel, an unhurried approach that suits a site this austere. 2010 is the vintage Côte de Nuits drinkers point to: a savage winter and a poor fruit set cut yields by roughly a third, leaving small, thick-skinned berries that made reds of real color and structure. This bottle comes to us from a private cellar and is now sixteen years on, which is right where a good 2010 starts to open — mature enough for tonight, structured enough to hold for years yet.