A village-level Riesling from one of the Mosel's most sought-after young growers — and the smartest way into a cellar most people can't get near. Julian and Nadine Haart farm just five hectares, and the combination of tiny production and genuinely fair pricing has been enough to spawn a gray market for his bottles, which tells you everything about the demand. Haart set up on his own in 2010 with family-owned Grand Cru sites on the Mosel's ultra-steep slate banks, where ancient vines yield almost nothing; his first purchase was a 0.8-hectare parcel in the heart of the Grand Cru Ohligsberg, just downstream from his hometown of Piesport. He trained in the best possible rooms — Egon Müller's and Klaus Peter Keller's among them — and everything is still vinified in his cellar in Piesport. This "Piesporter" is the estate's calling card from the village itself: the Haart signature of tension and crystalline detail, without the Grand Cru queue.