This is Sangiovese off land that used to be Biondi-Santi's: when Tancredi Biondi-Santi's holdings were divided among his children in the early 1970s, one daughter sold her inheritance to a Milanese advertising executive named Sergio Rossi, and it became La Gerla. Gli Angeli is the estate's first cru and the source of its Riserva — just over two hectares of the oldest vines on the Canalicchio slope, planted from 1965, on lean marl-and-limestone soil beside the little Chiesa degli Angeli that gives the vineyard its name. The Riserva is only made in years that earn it, entirely Sangiovese Grosso including the original Biondi-Santi BBS/11 selection, and it spends four years in 50- to 100-hectoliter Slavonian oak casks and another year in bottle before release. 2012 brought a cold wet winter and then a long, hot, dry summer whose heat came on gradually enough for the vines to adapt, giving small berries and concentrated wines from a harvest well down in volume across the zone. Out of a private cellar and now well into its second decade, it's drinking beautifully with plenty of road ahead — give it a long decant.