Kabinett from Piesporter Goldtröpfchen — one of the Mosel's most storied vineyards — made by a young grower whose wines have become some of the most chased in the region. Max Kilburg is a 20th-generation winemaker whose family has been growing wine here for more than 750 years; he runs the family's Geierslay estate and, alongside it, a micro-project of barely 1.2 hectares of old-vine Grand Cru parcels split between Ohligsberg and Goldtröpfchen. He worked with Julian Haart before taking over at home, and the two now live minutes apart in neighbouring villages, between them holding some of the most consequential parcels in Piesport and Wintrich. Goldtröpfchen is the warmer of Kilburg's two Grand Cru sites, an amphitheater of Devon slate veined with quartz curling around the village on a long outer bend of the river — but in Kabinett form it's the linear one, spiced and lithe rather than broad. Featherweight alcohol, a whisper of sweetness, and enough acid to keep it aloft for years.