Wintricher Ohligsberg is the site nearly every Mosel winemaker names among the very top of the region, and Max Kilburg farms an older-vine parcel of it — a south-facing amphitheatre of blue slate that leans darker and more powerful than the brighter Goldtröpfchen, with cool breezes sliding down a side valley to keep the fruit tense. Kilburg is a 20th-generation grower who runs the family's historic Weingut Geierslay in Wintrich and trained with Julian Haart, who lives minutes away; his own line comes from less than two hectares of old-vine Grand Cru parcels in Ohligsberg and Goldtröpfchen, which is to say there is very little of it. The Ohligsberg Spätlese is the powerful, deep one in his range — more than one taster has put it next to Willi Schaefer's Domprobst for firmness and structure. One caveat worth knowing about the year: 2023's generous water made fermentations run easy and strong across the Mosel, so most wines finished drier than usual, Spätlesen included. If you like your Prädikat Riesling on the leaner, more sharply drawn side of off-dry, that's a feature, not a bug.