Pinot Blanc with the cut and salinity of a vinous gin and tonic — mineral, herbal, pushing, with a plushness that's textural rather than showy. All the fruit comes from cool, limestone-riddled vineyards in and around Uelversheim, Moritz Kissinger's home village in central Rheinhessen, roughly a half-hour from the Roter Hang in one direction and Klaus-Peter Keller's Flörsheim-Dalsheim in the other. That in-between address is the point: working outside the famous slopes leaves Kissinger free of Grand Cru expectations, and his wines have more in common with progressive Burgundy and Jura growers than with his Rheinhessen neighbours. He and his wife Jasmin farm biodynamically, certified both Demeter and organic, and house practice is hands-off in the cellar — hand-harvest, fractional pressing by taste, ferments in wood parcel by parcel, at least ten months on the lees, bottled unfiltered. Keller, for whom Moritz worked in the cellar for a few years, helped light the fuse by praising his inaugural Chardonnay release on Instagram; demand has been ferocious ever since. Weissburgunder is the sleeper of the range and the smartest way into one of Germany's most talked-about young estates.