Sauvignon Blanc made by someone who clearly doesn't much like the way Sauvignon Blanc usually smells — and that's the point. It's dry, and it comes from the cold, limestone-riddled vineyards in and around their home village of Uelversheim, in the central Rheinhessen roughly half an hour from both the Roter Hang and Keller's Flörsheim-Dalsheim. Moritz is a fourth-generation grower but only the second in the family to bottle his own wine, and the vineyards are being developed in a biodynamic direction, replanted vine by vine rather than parcel by parcel on the theory that diversity buys resilience. Tellingly, the non-Riesling wines carry no vineyard names at all — the goal here is to find the variety and the soil first. He came to collectors' attention when Klaus Peter Keller raved about one of his Chardonnays, and the handful of bottles he releases each year have been a phenomenon in Germany ever since; this is one of the more interesting ways into the estate.