Sauvignon Blanc made like a serious white Burgundy rather than a tropical fruit bomb: built to let the limestone do the talking rather than the grape's louder aromatics. It all comes from cool, limestone-riddled vineyards in and around Kissinger's home village of Uelversheim, in central Rheinhessen, roughly half an hour from both the Roter Hang and Keller's Flörsheim-Dalsheim. Kissinger, the fourth generation on the family estate, farms biodynamically — Demeter and organic certified — hand-harvests everything, presses in fractions by taste and tannin, and ferments in wood, parcel by parcel, without settling. Note that he doesn't put a vineyard name on this one: the non-Riesling wines are deliberately left unnamed, framed as an open question about what the variety and the soil can become in Rheinhessen. Rather than pull out whole plots, the family replants vine by vine, on the theory that diversity is what makes a vineyard resilient. If you've written off German Sauvignon Blanc, this is the bottle that should change your mind.