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Olivier Merlin, Macon Blanc la Roche Vineuse les Cras, 2022

White Wine from Burgundy, France
by Olivier Merlin
$54.99
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A single parcel of 1962-planted Chardonnay, barrel-fermented and aged 18 months — this is Mâcon that thinks it's Meursault. Les Cras is a 0.8-hectare plot on the plateau above La Roche-Vineuse, southwest-facing at around 300 meters on quaternary clay-limestone, and the limestone here is so active that the minerality comes through as a hard mineral streak rather than a suggestion. Olivier Merlin has bottled it separately since his very first vintage in 1987, which tells you how quickly he figured out what he had: while his straight La Roche-Vineuse stays in stainless steel, Les Cras gets whole-cluster pressing, used barrels, no fining and only the lightest filtration. Hand-harvested, tilled soils, modest yields around 40 hl/ha: everything here is done the expensive way, and yet it's still the Mâcon on the label, which is the whole reason to buy it. Serious white Burgundy from an address that hasn't been priced like one.

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Antonio Galloni

89 points

"The 2022 Mâcon La Roche Vineuse Les Cras was bottled a month before my visit. This is richer on the nose than the Vieilles Vignes and a touch more exotic in style. The palate is medium-bodied with a smooth, slightly honeyed texture, with lower acidity than the 2021. It has a pure, waxy-textured finish. Fine." —Neal Martin

Decanter

93 points

"Tasted from the barrel, this complex, delicious wine displays aromas of ripe pear, apricot, and quince, accompanied by a pleasant floral note. The texture is rich and dense—reflecting the sunny vintage—yet remains consistently balanced. Grapes from 0.8 hectares of 60-year-old vines, situated on a moderate slope at an elevation of 265 meters, are fermented in 20% new oak and aged for 18 months to produce this stylish wine."

More about

Magical Mâcon from the plainest terroir. Olivier and Corinne started in 1987 renting 4.5 hectares, now they're recognized as the Mâconnais' reference point. Their secret: seriousness. They vinify entirely in tank to preserve purity, extract from old vines (60 years average), and prove that 'lowly' Mâcon can rival Côte d'Or wines. Blind-tasters often guess Meursault; the reality is even better value.

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast chicken with tarragon, sole meunière, gruyère and leek tart, veal blanquette, scallops seared in butter, or a good aged Comté.

Tasting Profile

Rich and powerful for a Mâcon, with hazelnut and ripe orchard fruit on the nose. Full-bodied but firm rather than soft, with a strong chalky mineral cut from the limestone soils. The finish is long and stony.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Chardonnay

  • Vintage

    2022

  • Size

    750ml

  • Sweetness

    Dry

Map of Burgundy Wine Region

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Complete Guide to Burgundy

Burgundy is one of the world's most complex and rewarding wine regions — and one of the most misunderstood. This guide breaks it all down, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south.

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