Ten years on, this is Pernand-Vergelesses doing what Pernand does best: slow, unhurried ripening on slopes tucked into nooks off the Cote d'Or's famous east-facing line, and none of the heaviness that creeps into warmer sites. Les Vergelesses is the southernmost of Domaine Rollin's premier crus, planted to vines well past fifty years old, and it has always been the gentlest and most supple of their reds - Les Fichots, immediately to the north on clay and iron, is the muscular one. The Rollins have been at this for four generations, from Raymond through Maurice, who began bottling in 1955, to Remi and now his son Simon, who joined in 2003; they farm twelve hectares across five villages with as few vineyard treatments as they can get away with, hand-harvest, ferment on indigenous yeasts and bottle without fining or filtration, and the premier crus see only 20 to 30 percent new oak so the soil still does the talking. 2016 was Burgundy's frost year and the domaine was hit hard; what survived ripened late and came in bright and precise rather than fat. This is a back-vintage bottle in a very good place right now - give it half an hour of air and drink it over the next several years.