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Samuel Billaud, Chablis 1er Cru "Mont de Milieu", 2024

White Wine from Burgundy, France
by Samuel Billaud
$91.99
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Mont de Milieu is the right bank's own hill: a self-contained 44-hectare premier cru just upriver from Chablis, facing south and southeast, with woods above it blocking the north wind. Its Kimmeridgian subsoil is unusually uniform, capped by clay and small white limestone stones, and it produces the powerful, dense end of premier cru Chablis without giving up purity - wines that generally want ten years. Billaud farms three parcels at different heights on the slope on vines past sixty years old, ages a portion of the wine in 450-litre barrels and assembles the rest in tank on its lees: enough wood for breadth, not enough to taste. It is the fuller, sunnier of his two right-bank premier crus, with Montee de Tonnerre next door playing the tense, chiselled counterpart. In 2024's tiny, hard-won crop that natural generosity is exactly what you want; give it a few years.

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Burghound

94 points

"From a .58 ha holding that encompasses the three levels of the vineyard; from yields of only 20 hl/ha in 2024. As is often the case, there is a vague suggestion of the exotic on the super-fresh and bright nose of citrus confit, quinine, petrol and shellfish. Much like the Fourneaux, the medium-bodied flavors are dense, powerful and serious with superb length on the balanced finish that is borderline tannic. This too could use more depth, but it is undeniably promising and should age accordingly." —Allen Meadows

Antonio Galloni

94 points

"The 2024 Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru comes from low-yield limestone soils. This matured 80% in stainless steel, with the rest in 500-liter barrels. It is highly perfumed, bright and energetic on the nose, with hints of white peach and pressed white flowers surfacing with time. The palate is well balanced, fresh and delineated, with a keen thread of acidity. This represents one of Billaud's more linear, "old school" Chablis with a sapid finish that cries out for some seafood. Oysters please!" —Neal Martin

Robert Parker

91 points

"From a site that yielded a generous 55 hectoliters per hectare, the 2024 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu is sourced from three south-facing plots planted to 35- to 80-year-old vines and is again matured primarily in stainless steel. The wine soars from the glass with a bouquet of beeswax, spring flowers and pear, mingling with oyster liquor. Medium- to full-bodied, uniting amplitude with incisiveness, it is harmonious and built around bright acids and a crisp core of fruit, concluding with a long, saline finish." —Kristaps Karklins

Jancis Robinson

17 points

"Own vines. 80% stainless steel, 20% in barrels of 3–5 years, 456 litres and 500 litres. Vat sample. Slightly honeyed with a touch of apricot, as if there might be a touch of botrytis. Even if not, certainly this is ripe and aromatic. A hint of pears. The core on the palate is stony citrus but it’s clothed in a riper fruit layer yet balanced by the acidity. And still retains the classic Chablis stony-mineral quality. Long finish with a light grip." —Julia Harding MW

Decanter

94 points

"The complex aromas of mirabelle plum, tropical fruit and citrus zest lead into a powerful, dynamic texture where the ripeness and fresh acidity achieve a superb balance. The grapes are from three parcels ranging in age from 35 to 85 years old, with the oldest planted by Billaud's grandfather. Mont de Milieu was little affected by the weather in 2024, and Billaud was able to produce 30 hl/ha here. The grapes were fermented in a combination of tank and cask." —Charles Curtis

More about Samuel Billaud

Samuel Billaud made wine for over 20 vintages at his family's Domaine Billaud-Simon before branching out in 2009 with his own vision. When the family domaine sold in 2014, he secured several prime vineyard parcels in Les Clos, Vaudésir, Blanchot, and other Premier Cru sites—15 hectares total. Hand-harvest for top cuvées, measured oak use (10–20% new), stainless steel aging for village wines. This is a modernist approach to classical Chablis—mineral, precise, terroir-driven.

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast turbot, lobster with drawn butter, chicken in cream sauce, veal blanquette, Comte.

Tasting Profile

Ripe apple, citrus zest and white flowers over iodine and wet stone. Medium-bodied and dense, firm acidity, a subtle creamy edge from lees, long mineral finish.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Chardonnay

  • Vintage

    2024

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Sustainable

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

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