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Samuel Billaud, Chablis 1er Cru "Montee de Tonnerre", 2024

White Wine from Burgundy, France
by Samuel Billaud
$95.99
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Montee de Tonnerre picks up where the Grand Cru hill leaves off - set just back from the seven grands crus on the same right-bank slope, and built on the same timescale, needing ten to fifteen years to show everything it has. Where its neighbour Mont de Milieu is broad and sun-fed, Tonnerre turns more to the west on shallower soil, and veins of blue clay running through the Kimmeridgian marly limestone give it a colder, tighter, more chiselled line. Billaud's parcels sit at the top and middle of the incline on vines of fifty to sixty years; about 80 percent is raised in tank and the balance in used 500-litre barrels, which is why the salinity arrives undressed. He left the family's Domaine Billaud-Simon in 2009 and built a gravity-fed cellar in the centre of Chablis, over vaults that date to the thirteenth century. 2024 was punishing to farm - flood, frost, May hail and mildew cut yields to a fraction of normal - and what survived is precisely the taut, saline, long-haul Chablis this site exists to make.

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Burghound

95 points

"A more elegant and more floral-infused nose speaks of mineral reduction, iodine, quinine and an array of citrus nuances. Once again, the mouthfeel of the middle weight flavors is super-sleek with excellent delineation that carries over to the almost painfully intense, chiseled, stony and strikingly long finish. This is pretty much textbook MdT so if you can find it, buy it. Sweet spot." —Allen Meadows

Antonio Galloni

94 points

"The 2024 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru comes from parcels at the top and center of the incline, using vines between 50 and 60 years old. This matured 80% in tank and 20% in 500-liter barrels. It has a sea spray- and nectarine-tinged bouquet that blossoms in the glass. The palate is well defined with a silver bead of acidity. This has a little more depth than the Mont de Milieu. It's very poised and energetic with a lingering, saline finish. This is superb. Again." —Neal Martin

Robert Parker

93 points

"The 2024 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre, as ever, is sourced from Chapelot—lending tension—and from Montée de Tonnerre proper, which brings amplitude and fleshy musculature. It is aged 80% in tank and 20% in wood. The wine soars from the glass with a deep bouquet of pear, apricot beeswax and peach. Medium- to full-bodied, it is textural and demonstrative yet simultaneously vibrant and incisive as one would expect from a cool season like this, underpinned by racy acidity and concluding with a long, persistent finish." —kristaps Karklins

Jancis Robinson

17.5 points

"Tank sample. Very similar to Mont de Milieu but just seems to have an extra top gear of precision and finesse. But I’d happily drink both! Marries the power and concentration of a top Chablis site with the warmth of the sun in the later parts of the growing season. Finishes with a stony edge but never rasping. Great example of this premier cru." —Jancis Robinson MW

More about Samuel Billaud

Samuel Billaud made wine for over 20 vintages at his family's Domaine Billaud-Simon before branching out in 2009 with his own vision. When the family domaine sold in 2014, he secured several prime vineyard parcels in Les Clos, Vaudésir, Blanchot, and other Premier Cru sites—15 hectares total. Hand-harvest for top cuvées, measured oak use (10–20% new), stainless steel aging for village wines. This is a modernist approach to classical Chablis—mineral, precise, terroir-driven.

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Grilled turbot, scallops in beurre blanc, sole, crab cakes, mature Gruyere.

Tasting Profile

Lime flower, citrus peel and oyster shell with a smoky, flinty note. Medium-bodied, chiselled, high acidity, intense salinity and a long, driving finish.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Chardonnay

  • Vintage

    2024

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Sustainable

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

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Burgundy is one of the world's most complex and rewarding wine regions — and one of the most misunderstood. This guide breaks it all down, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south.

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