The "1900" in the name is literal: just over a thousand ungrafted Riesling vines planted in the year 1900, on a tiny terraced parcel called the Kleine Hölle that is the second-oldest producing Riesling vineyard in the Mosel and among the oldest vine plantings anywhere in Germany. Ulli Stein leased the plot in 2011 and tends it like a garden — which, at that age and on that gradient, is the only way it can be tended. The wine ferments in neutral barrel and is left to find its own balance, and in 2021 it landed as a Kabinett Trocken rather than the Spätlese this cuvée usually becomes: lower in weight, drier, more nervous, which is precisely the register Stein prefers anyway (he values cut over size and has rarely bothered with Auslese). This is also one of the most exotic, perfumed wines in the Mosel, so give it air — decant it, or open the bottle a few hours ahead. Old vines, a bone-dry frame and that kind of aromatic lift do not often show up in the same glass.