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Stein, Spatlese Trocken Alte Reben Palmberg, 2023

$57.99
Use code 10OFF to get 10% off 12+ bottles
This is Ulli Stein's top dry Riesling — his answer to a Grosses Gewächs — and he could make it richer but flatly refuses. He won't bottle an Auslese Trocken, even though it would be easier and would fetch more, because what he wants from the Palmberg is raciness and lift, not weight. The Palmberg is his Grand Cru: an ancient wall of terraced vines on blue and gray slate, held up by dry slate walls that take absurd amounts of hand labor, with own-rooted plantings 90 years and older. A stream cuts the site so it angles away from the Mosel, and the cool wind funneling down that side valley beside St. Aldegund once made ripeness a struggle — in a warming Mosel, that same coolness is now the whole point, especially with vines this old. Spätlese ripeness, fermented bone dry, from a grower who went from total obscurity to cult status by refusing to leave any sugar behind.

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More about Stein

Ulli Stein is a rebel who spent eight years fighting German wine law to revive the traditional straw wine style. His Mosel Rieslings come from ancient ungrafted vines on impossible slopes, made dry and with laser-focused precision. This is winemaking as defiance.

Wine Details

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast chicken with lemon and thyme, trout with brown butter and almonds, schnitzel, crab salad, pork loin with mustard sauce, or a plate of aged Gruyère and soft pretzels.

Tasting Profile

Bone dry, with firm, cutting acidity and a slightly phenolic grip that gives it structure rather than softness.

WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!