Lake Balaton, which is so big (the biggest in continental Europe) it looks like the ocean, lies at the center of a Hungarian wine region destined to blow up.Really, it has everything: awesome hillside vineyards planted on the remnants of extinct underwater volcanos, a perfect wine-growing microclimate regulated by the lake and, recently, great winemakers.One winemaker who really understands the potential of this region is Tamás Kovács of Szent Donat. He's based out of the village of Csopok ("Cho-Pok") where he's built a remarkable winery and restaurant on one of those hillsides I mentioned. That particular hill is unique, because it's not made of volcanic soil on top – it's a big chunk of limestone and clay (marl). As you walk down towards the village, though, the soil turns to red sandstone and clay. Balaton is crazy! Of course, Tamás is a smart guy, so he makes single-vineyard wines from these different soils.