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Vollenweider, Riesling Kabinett Goldgrube, 2021

$49.99
Use code 10OFF to get 10% off 12+ bottles
Kabinett is the wine this estate is known for, and among people who care about the category Vollenweider sits in the very small group of names that get mentioned alongside Egon Müller, Willi Schaefer and Julian Haart. At this estate the Kabinett is traditionally vinified with residual sweetness, so this is a fruity-styled, gently sweet Riesling rather than a dry one; if you want Trocken, the Goldgrube parcel bottlings are where to go. The fruit comes from the western, coolest end of the Wolfer Goldgrube, the vineyard that holds 90% of the estate's roughly five hectares of largely un-consolidated parcels and is planted to very old, own-rooted vines that never had to be grafted. The 2021 was made while Daniel Vollenweider and Moritz Hoffmann were still working side by side, before Daniel's death the following summer. The estate puts the Kabinett's ageing potential at 10+ years, when things get really exciting, which makes a bottle now something between a pleasure and a head start.

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More about Vollenweider

Farming old vines on the steep slopes of the Middle Mosel is hard work. And it doesn't pay well. With German wine prices staying so stubbornly low, we shouldn't be surprised that so many vineyard-owning families in earlier generations simply stopped working.

So, what motivates the growers who work so hard on such crazy sites, if not money? Sheer passion.

A small crop of vintners has come along, a new generation that's very interested in the old vines left fallow by their predecessors. Their interest, of course, is not from the point of view of agri-business, but something far more soulful. They feel a connection to the land and its history. They love Riesling, and they are in the middle of the greatest Riesling terroir on earth. They have very special land with very special old vines and they desperately want to see what kind of wine it can make.

The tragic passing of Daniel Vollenweider in the summer of 2022 left a hole in the Mosel wine community. Daniel was a beloved figure who produced a collection of glorious, terroir-transparent wines that helped define the style of contemporary Mosel Riesling.

Thankfully, Daniel laid out careful plans for the future of his eponymous estate, preparing his protégé, Moritz Hoffmann, to lead the winery into its next phase. Now in his third solo vintage, Moritz has truly come into his own as one of the Mosel’s top growers, bringing the estate to stunning new heights.

The domaine is rich in prime terroir, with ancient, un-grafted vines on the ultra-steep grand cru Wolfer Goldgrube. Here, Moritz crafts tiny quantities of wine with an almost maniacal attention to detail. All vineyard work is performed by hand (of course). The fruit is pressed in an old-school vertical basket press, fermented naturally, and aged in either stainless steel or large, neutral oak barrels. The wines are crystalline and pure, with gorgeous aromatics, incisive acidity, and unending length.

Wine Details

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Thai green curry, Sichuan dry-fried green beans, pork belly bao, curried mussels, roast duck with cherries, or a washed-rind cheese like Époisses.

Tasting Profile

Sweet but carried by an electric minerality, so it reads fresh rather than sugary — intense yet elegant, easy yet substantial.

WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!