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Vollenweider, Riesling Trocken Goldgrube, 2021

$59.99
Use code 10OFF to get 10% off 12+ bottles
This is the whole-site portrait of the Wolfer Goldgrube, bone-dry: from 2024 the estate began splitting its dry Goldgrube into separate parcel bottlings, so a 2021 like this one is the last word in the older format — the best plots and oldest vines of the site, up to a century old, blended into a single wine. Goldgrube is one of Vollenweider's three grand crus, and the one that made the estate: Daniel Vollenweider started here in 1999 with barely more than a hectare, and 90% of the holdings still sit inside this steep slate site. The vines are trained on individual stakes in the old Mosel fashion, many of them ungrafted and never touched by land consolidation, and everything is farmed organically and picked entirely by hand. Winemaking is deliberately hands-off — large oak casks and stainless steel, no fining — which is why the site's own character (intense, spicy, sometimes almost tropical, always mineral) comes through so clearly. Trocken means what it says: fermented out, no perceptible sweetness. Built to age.

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More about Vollenweider

Farming old vines on the steep slopes of the Middle Mosel is hard work. And it doesn't pay well. With German wine prices staying so stubbornly low, we shouldn't be surprised that so many vineyard-owning families in earlier generations simply stopped working.

So, what motivates the growers who work so hard on such crazy sites, if not money? Sheer passion.

A small crop of vintners has come along, a new generation that's very interested in the old vines left fallow by their predecessors. Their interest, of course, is not from the point of view of agri-business, but something far more soulful. They feel a connection to the land and its history. They love Riesling, and they are in the middle of the greatest Riesling terroir on earth. They have very special land with very special old vines and they desperately want to see what kind of wine it can make.

The tragic passing of Daniel Vollenweider in the summer of 2022 left a hole in the Mosel wine community. Daniel was a beloved figure who produced a collection of glorious, terroir-transparent wines that helped define the style of contemporary Mosel Riesling.

Thankfully, Daniel laid out careful plans for the future of his eponymous estate, preparing his protégé, Moritz Hoffmann, to lead the winery into its next phase. Now in his third solo vintage, Moritz has truly come into his own as one of the Mosel’s top growers, bringing the estate to stunning new heights.

The domaine is rich in prime terroir, with ancient, un-grafted vines on the ultra-steep grand cru Wolfer Goldgrube. Here, Moritz crafts tiny quantities of wine with an almost maniacal attention to detail. All vineyard work is performed by hand (of course). The fruit is pressed in an old-school vertical basket press, fermented naturally, and aged in either stainless steel or large, neutral oak barrels. The wines are crystalline and pure, with gorgeous aromatics, incisive acidity, and unending length.

Wine Details

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Pork schnitzel with lemon, roast chicken with herbs, trout or perch with brown butter, scallops, smoked eel, spätzle with aged Gruyère, or a plate of charcuterie and sharp mustard. Also very good with Thai or Vietnamese dishes that lean on lime and chili.

Tasting Profile

Aromas of lime, white peach and a touch of something tropical, with a smoky, stony note from the slate. Light to medium bodied and fully dry — no sweetness at all — with bright, cutting acidity and a firm mineral spine. The finish is long, saline and dry rather than fruity. A few years in the cellar will reward it.

WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!