This is the whole-site portrait of the Wolfer Goldgrube, bone-dry: from 2024 the estate began splitting its dry Goldgrube into separate parcel bottlings, so a 2021 like this one is the last word in the older format — the best plots and oldest vines of the site, up to a century old, blended into a single wine. Goldgrube is one of Vollenweider's three grand crus, and the one that made the estate: Daniel Vollenweider started here in 1999 with barely more than a hectare, and 90% of the holdings still sit inside this steep slate site. The vines are trained on individual stakes in the old Mosel fashion, many of them ungrafted and never touched by land consolidation, and everything is farmed organically and picked entirely by hand. Winemaking is deliberately hands-off — large oak casks and stainless steel, no fining — which is why the site's own character (intense, spicy, sometimes almost tropical, always mineral) comes through so clearly. Trocken means what it says: fermented out, no perceptible sweetness. Built to age.