This is the last Goldgrube dry Riesling bottled as a single wine — from 2024 on, the estate splits the site into separate parcel bottlings, so 2023 is the whole site in one glass. It comes off 120-year-old vines still trained on single stakes on the steep slate of the Wolfer Goldgrube, hand-harvested (there is no other option on ground this steep) and fermented with native yeasts. 2023 was a breakthrough year for dry Riesling in the Mosel: warm enough to ripen properly in a famously cool place, with the whole trick being to stop short of overripeness — and the dry wines here came out etched, saline and linear rather than heavy. What makes it worth the money is that the power never turns into weight; it's structured and serious and still genuinely easy to drink. Bone dry, as Trocken promises — fermented out, no perceptible sweetness. The estate farms roughly five hectares of unconsolidated, largely own-rooted old-vine parcels around Traben-Trarbach, 90% of it inside this one vineyard, all certified organic.