A sparkling wine from Wasenhaus, the Baden estate that has gone from insider secret to heavily allocated in a few short years — and it's a zero-dosage blanc de noirs blend built with the same seriousness as their Spätburgunders. Christoph Wolber and Alexander Götze direct-pressed Spätburgunder as a blanc de noirs and blended it with 20% Weissburgunder, then gave the wine three vintages' worth of depth, two years on the lees, and no dosage at all. Wolber and Götze met in Burgundy, where they trained at Comte Armand, Pierre Morey, Domaine Leflaive and Domaine de Montille before founding Wasenhaus in 2018 on Wolber's family farm in Staufen im Breisgau; the roughly six hectares of granite, volcanic and limestone soils under loess are farmed organically and biodynamically. Disgorged in 2024, this is bone-dry sparkling wine with no sugar to hide behind, which is exactly the point. Given how hard their still wines are to find, a bubbly from this address is worth grabbing when it surfaces.