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Wittmann, Riesling GG Morstein, 2021

White Wine from Rheinhessen, Germany
by Wittmann
$119.99
Use code 10OFF to get 10% off 12+ bottles
Morstein is the great dry Riesling site of the southern Rheinhessen, and this is Wittmann's flagship from it — a Grosses Gewächs, meaning the estate's best dry wine from a classified grand cru slope. The vines sit in a five-hectare parcel in the heart of the hillside, on a south-facing incline of up to 20% where heavy clayey marl runs over porous limestone rock, which is why Morstein gives Riesling both weight and cut rather than just one or the other. The Wittmanns have farmed in Westhofen since 1663 and were remarkably early to conviction farming: organic certification in 1990, biodynamic in 2004, well before either was fashionable in Germany. They're also largely responsible for the full-bodied, balanced dry style Rheinhessen is now known for, so this isn't a wine chasing a template — it helped write one. 2021 was what the estate calls a classic Rhine vintage: a long, fine autumn with cool nights that built aromatics while holding onto acidity, and selective picking throughout the harvest. The result is dry Riesling at modest alcohol with real tension, and it will reward a decade or more of patience.

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Robert Parker

95 points

"The 2021 Morstein Riesling GG shows a very clear, elegant and rested nose with a fine fruit core, which is light in color like the chalk that seems to trickle over this Morstein with a dash of fresh lemon juice. A spicy, finely racy acidity on the palate leads to a dense, firm and serious palate with a long, very tense finish. This is a classic Riesling that is quite demanding in its mercilessness, but it's one that will continue to amaze for many years to come. It's very long and draws saliva from every corner of the mouth. This is great, if a little stingy in terms of fruit ripeness due to the vintage, which the finish reveals. But never mind, the wine is stimulating! Tasted at the domaine in August 2024." —Stephan Reinhardt

Wine Spectator

93 points

"Packs a powerful, mineral-coated spine that supports floral, honeysuckle and white peach flavors. Decidedly savory, thanks to smoke and green herb elements, while the glossy texture shows nice finesse. Searing acidity wins the day, carrying the concentrated profile. Salty and long, with serious cellaring potential. Drink now through 2035."

Wine Enthusiast

95 points

"This is quite closed still, but it does allow for a sneak peek to what it is going to become with some cellaring. Lemon verbena on the nose opens it up to the flavors of Meyer lemon, quince, Bosc pear and white raspberry. The acidity is firm and makes a heavy imprint at the moment, but when coupled with the texture, it leaves a harmonious impression. The finish is very persistent. There is a lot of wine here, you just need to peel off the layers. Best after 2028." —Aleks Zecevic

More about Wittmann

Weingut Wittmann has been making Rieslings from Rheinhessen’s limestone soils since the 1600s. Their top wines come from a vineyard called Morstein, where Keller also works and although their international reputation isn't at Keller’s level they do have cult status in Germany—and among a niche group of Riesling fanatics here.

Wine Details

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast chicken with lemon and thyme, pork schnitzel, seared scallops with brown butter, Alsatian onion tart, trout with almonds, or a platter of aged Comté and Gruyère. Also very good with Thai green curry or salt-and-pepper squid.

Tasting Profile

Dry and medium-bodied, with aromas of lime, white peach, green apple and a stony, chalky note. The palate is firm and taut rather than fruity-sweet, with bright, refreshing acidity and a gently textured mid-palate. The finish is long, saline and mineral, with citrus pith lingering.

WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!