Flatiron Wines & Spirits NY

Laherte Frères has been a reference point for the grower Champagne movement for years, with a dedication to organic/biodynamic practices, a focus on parcellaire wines, and an all-encompassing “let the site talk” mindset.

Les Grandes Crayères, from two plots planted between 1953–1978, epitomizes  Aurelien’s unique talent. It’s quintessential Coteaux Sud d’Epernay, with west-facing slopes that get warm afternoon sun (which distinguishes it from the generally east-facing Côtes des Blancs). The plots originally contributed to Laherte blends. But the sites, with topsoil thinning almost immediately into pure chalk, fascinated Aurelien, and the fruit that it gave seemed special. So he experimented and found the wine they made was so unique, so individually expressive, it needed to be bottled on its own to be fully appreciated. 

Aurelien’s choices in the cellar all focus on that clear expression of terroir: spontaneous fermentation in neutral 228-L barrels and without malo` preserves site-specific freshness; gentle lees stirring and 36 months aging sur-lattes allow the wine’s natural depth and complexity to emerge; the very low dosage of 2 g/L is like a sprinkling of salt that brings everything together without covering up either the chalky mineral intensity,or the generosity of fruit from the west-facing terroir.

The wine is in a beautiful spot, balancing the chalk’s straight-edge (citrus oils, chalk dust) with a long, quiet finish. It has the material to age but it’s so good now with so many foods that we aren’t waiting: oysters (or anything that tastes like the sea); poached leeks with vinaigrette; young, not-too-salty Comté – these all stand out. But anything with salt and gentle fat will meet the wine’s cut and generosity perfectly.